Martin Margiela vintage ss 1996 runway Trompe l'oeil printed viscose dress
About the Item
- Designer:
- Brand:
- Dimensions:Marked Size: Free (NA)
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use. Production company DA MISS DEANNA still attached - white label missing.
- Seller Location:Antwerpen, BE
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU44722005032
Maison Martin Margiela
Belgian designer Martin Margiela (b. 1957) — whose life, career, and designs for handbags, clothing and shoes have become cult-collector obsessions — pushed those who attended his shows outside their comfort zones. In the years following the 1988 debut of Maison Martin Margiela, he toyed with creative and aesthetic paradoxes that persist in fashion today.
Consider the Spring/Summer 2001 shirt patchworked from vintage clothing labels, or his famous corset dresses made from tailoring dummies, from his Fall/Winter 1997 line. Or his oversize collection for Fall/Winter 2000. In 1992, Margiela told Dépêche Mode magazine, “My clothes appeal to women of a certain mindset rather than of a specific age or physique.”
Born in Genk, Belgium, in 1957, Margiela knew he wanted to be a fashion designer after catching glimpses of Parisian fashion on TV as a child. Although his parents discouraged this career choice as an oddly funny aspiration, Margiela enrolled in the fashion program of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp. There, he befriended and graduated a year ahead of the Antwerp Six — the acclaimed group of Belgian fashion designers comprising Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Marina Yee, Dirk Bikkembergs and Dirk Van Saene.
Like many of his contemporaries in the 1980s, Margiela understood Paris fashion but felt a deep resonance with the deconstructed beauty espoused by Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, of Comme des Garçons. Margiela’s fascination with Japan influenced many of his earliest collections and designs, from a dress pieced together from broken plates to his iconic Tabi boots, inspired by the split-toe Japanese worker’s shoe, which dates back to the 15th century.
Margiela decided to launch his own line while working for renowned Paris designer Jean Paul Gaultier. With Belgian designer Jenny Meirens, Margiela established Maison Martin Margiela in the French capital in 1988.
Margiela’s debut show was nothing short of spectacular. Set in a packed Café de la Gare in the still-seedy Marais district, it was also scandalous to the Parisian fashion set of the time. The designer tore up the conventions of contemporary couture presentations, most notably having his models, plucked from the streets and wearing ink-blotted Tabis, wend their way through the crowd.
The show redefined the concept of the runway in a way that would later inspire such designers as Alexander McQueen and Demna Gvasalia.
While the notoriously private designer retired from fashion in 2009, for many Maison Martin Margiela collectors, his pieces capture the irreverence of the postwar, post-punk late 1980s and ’90s. Katy Rodriguez, cofounder of the cult vintage fashion shop Resurrection, is among those who felt a connection to Margiela’s clothing in the subliminal challenges it posed to the time’s beauty norms.
“Growing up in San Francisco and coming out of the end of punk rock, not wanting to be objectified, not wanting to be seen as a sexual object, not wanting your value to be just because you’re pretty — all those clothes played into all of that,” she says. “It really was a reflection of the kind of world the young people I knew at the time wanted to live in.”
John Galliano was named creative director at the house in 2014 and it rebranded as Maison Margiela in 2015.
Find vintage Maison Martin Margiela boots, evening dresses, jackets and more on 1stDibs.
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: Antwerpen, Belgium
- Return PolicyThis item cannot be returned.
- Courreges 1970s vintage lime green cotton long summer dressBy André Courrèges, CourrègesLocated in Antwerpen, Vlaams GewestAndre Courreges collectible vintage 1970s cotton bright lime green cotton linen summer dress Courreges size 00 Measurements taken flat: Ua to Ua 16,5inch/42cm (x2)- Waist 25inch/64c...Category
1960s French Day Dresses
- Lanvin vintage 1970s spring summer flower print wrap dressBy Lanvin ParisLocated in Antwerpen, Vlaams GewestA gorgeous, soft and flattering 1970s LANVIN cotton & polyester mix voile wrap maxi dress with a flower print pattern throughout. No size label, please go by the provided measurement...Category
1970s French Day Dresses
- Yves Saint Laurent "rive gauche" collectible vintage 1970s brown wool dressBy Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, Yves Saint LaurentLocated in Antwerpen, Vlaams GewestVintage collectible 1970s brown wool dress by Yves Saint Laurent "Rive Gauche" Made in a gorgeous brown "drap de laine" fabric French size 40. Please use the measurements for the per...Category
1970s French Day Dresses
- Jean Colonna vintage SS 1998 asymmetric floral partly transparent jersey dressLocated in Antwerpen, Vlaams GewestVerlaine Vintage presents a Jean Colonna asymmetric floral dress from the spring-summer 1998 collection. A piece that epitomizes Jean Colonna's minimalist sensuality, this dress has an interesting asymmetric design. The left side is constructed with a regular long sleeve, while the right side is sleeveless and the neckline functions as a shoulder strap. The designer explored this concept in several of their mid-'90s collections. The piece is crafted from an unusual technical jersey (71% viscose, 21% nylon) with a floral print that would look right at home in a vintage 70s interior...Category
1990s Italian Day Dresses
- Vintage 1980s Nina Ricci black silk dressBy Nina RicciLocated in Antwerpen, Vlaams GewestNina Ricci dress made in black soft silk. Features a ruffle collar with a silk fabric ribbon bow underneath. Lined fully with silk lining. Size label missing, please go by the provi...Category
1980s French Day Dresses
- Lanvin vintage 1970s cotton red and black ruffle skirt dressBy Lanvin ParisLocated in Antwerpen, Vlaams GewestLovely vintage 1970s dress by Lanvin made in cotton. Button opening at the front and slide pocket on each side of the dress. Measurements taken fl...Category
1970s French Day Dresses
- 1990S GIANNI VERSACE Style Silk Crepe De Chine Leopard Baroque Scarf Print DressLocated in New York, NY1990S GIANNI VERSACE Style Silk Crepe De Chine Leopard Baroque Scarf Print DressCategory
1990s Casual Dresses
- MORPHEW COLLECTION Peach Silk Jersey Dress With Cutout Front & 1930S Floral TrimBy MorphewLocated in New York, NYMORPHEW COLLECTION Peach Silk Jersey Dress With Cutout Front & 1930S Floral Trim MORPHEW COLLECTION is made entirely by hand in our NYC Ateliér of rare antique materials sourced from...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Casual Dresses
- 1970S SAKS 5TH AVENUE Navy Silk Chiffon Ruffled GownLocated in New York, NY1970S SAKS 5TH AVENUE Navy Silk Chiffon Ruffled GownCategory
1970s Formal Gowns
- DOLCE & GABBANA black & white ROSE PRINT & LACE Dress 42By Dolce & GabbanaLocated in Zürich, CHDolce & Gabbana shift dress in black and white viscose (82%) cotton (16%) nylon (2%) with a rose print and lace part at the bottom, stand-up collar, puffed shoulders, long sleeves wi...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Unknown Casual Dresses
- MORPHEW ATELIER Dark Fuscia Silk Jersey Low Cut Cocktail DressBy MorphewLocated in New York, NYMORPHEW ATELIER Dark Fuscia Silk Jersey Low Cut Cocktail DressCategory
21st Century and Contemporary Cocktail Dresses
- 1960S White Cotton Mod Jackie O Style Dress With Daisy LaceLocated in New York, NY1960S White Cotton Mod Jackie O Style Dress With Daisy LaceCategory
1960s Casual Dresses